Matsuyama is a charmingly hospitable castle town and the largest city on the island of Shikoku. It’s got ancient hot springs, a deep literary history, and is known as the mecca of haiku.
But the real jewel in this fascinating city’s crown is the spectacular Matsuyama Castle perched high above the bustle of downtown and watching overall, just like the feudal lords who once called it home.
Highlights Of Matsuyama:
- Visit the oldest bathhouse in Japan and the inspiration for the film spirited away.
- Feel the warmth and hospitality of this charming castle city
- Experience panoramic views of the city, mountains, and sea from the spectacular hilltop castle
Situated in Ehime Prefecture, Matsuyama is a popular travel destination for the Japanese for centuries yet is well off the radar for many international travelers to Japan.
What Are The Best Things To Do In Matsuyama?
Learn why the Japanner team list Matsuyama as one of our favorite and most recommended off-the-beaten-path travel destinations. Here are some of the best attractions and things to do in the wonderful Matsuyama, Japan.
Matsuyama Castle
Perched 132 meters above the bustling city on Mount Katsuyama sits the imposing Matsuyama Castle.
It’s, without a doubt, one of the most complex and interesting castles in Japan and is a must-visit for any castle lover.
Just as impressive as the castle itself is the breathtaking panoramic view of the city, mountains, and nearby Seto Sea that can be enjoyed from the citadel.
One of only 12 original castles remaining in Japan, Matsuyama Castle was first built in 1603 by local feudal lord Kato Yoshiaki.
The famous Matsudaira family soon took over and retained the keys to the front gate until the end of the feudal era.
The castle’s defenses were formidable with its design and hilltop location protecting it from all directions. Except one. Above. Twice burning down after being struck by lightning in 1642 and 1784.
The present castle was constructed in 1820 and is a fine example of late Tokugawa period castle design.
Getting Up To Matsuyama Castle
Once you’ve added Matsuyama castle to your to-do list you’ve got some decisions to make. How to get up there. You’ve got 3 options. The cable car, the chairlift, or the traditional method of accent; your own two feet.
The cable car and chairlift depart from the Ropeway station at the end of Okaido Shopping Street. We preferred the open air and view of the chairlift. Just don’t drop your camera!
If you need to work off that ramen you had for lunch or just like challenging yourself, you can also climb up to the citadel on foot.
The route is well shaded and only takes about 15 minutes. Then take the chairlift back down and enjoy the unobscured view.
Alternatively, you can take the walking path from Ninomaru Garden via Shiroyama Park at the base of the mountain for a pleasant 15-minute walk.
Just as impressive for us were the amazing 360-degree views that can be enjoyed from the castle’s surroundings.
It’s definitely worth taking some extra time to diverge from the main walking paths and explore beyond the side walls to enjoy the view.
Pro tip: Although the castle closes at 5 it’s a great place to see a spectacular sunset later in the evening. Just make sure to bring a torch for the walk down.
Dogo Onsen Area
A short tram ride to the northeast of town lies the ancient and mystical hot spring town of Dogo.
Although the area has now been well engulfed by the suburbs of Matsuyama the area still maintains a resort feel with many a hot spring soaker strolling the nearby lanes in traditional yukata robes.
The mineral-rich waters are said to have healing properties with the magical waters said to have once healed the injured leg of a Herron. Since then Prince Shōtoku was regularly spotted here having a dip in the 6th century.
More recently, legendary Japanese writer Natsume Soseki was a frequent visitor to the area when he worked as a teacher nearby. The main character in his loosely biographical novel Botchan (more on this below) also regularly bathed in the water here.
All this ensures that Dogo is one of the most famous and well-known onsens in Japan.
Dogo Onsen Main Building
The undisputed symbol of the area is the mystical Dogo Onsen Honkan. A rare spot that continues to operate as an active public bathhouse even though it is a National Important Cultural Property.
Perhaps the most famous bathhouse in all of Japan, this elegant bathhouse has been given 3 Michelin stars, is the hot spring of choice to the imperial family, and was the inspiration behind the god’s bathhouse in Miyazaki’s instant anime classic Spirited Away.
Inside the elegant building, there are two bathhouses, “Rei-no-yu” and “Kamino-yu,” and visitors can choose from four different bathing courses.
Tsubaki no Yu
Tsubaki-no-yu is a sister building of Dogo Onsen’s main building, with the camellia, the city flower of Matsuyama City, as its symbol.
Like the main building, the hot spring water is free-flowing and not heated or watered and it is a popular public bathhouse for many Matsuyama locals, with a more casual atmosphere.
The spacious, high-ceilinged bathhouse has a calm and spacious atmosphere and includes a bathtub made of the same elegant granite as that used in the main building.
There is also haiku by Shiki Masaoka, a haiku poet from Matsuyama, inscribed on the bathtub.
Asuka no yu
The concept of Asukano-no-Yusen is a public bathhouse that incorporates the architectural style of the Asuka period (710-794).
It has a large roof adorned with two horn-like decorations called shibi, which can be seen on the Todaiji Temple in Nara, and a vivid and contrasting red and white paint job on the exterior.
There’s a large bath featuring a ceramic mural produced in nearby Tobe, and unlike the main building, there is an invigorating open-air bath, allowing you to enjoy the high-quality water while gazing at the sky.
Check Out The Botchan Clock
Every country has that coming-of-age novel that every school kid reads at some point. For Japan, Soseki’s Botchan is that book. And they are quite proud of it in the Dogo Onsen area. So much so that the book has its own theme clock.
The Botchan Kuraki Clock was built in 1994 to celebrate the 100-year anniversary of the main Dogo onsen building.
The clock’s exterior is based on the bath house but on the half-hour, the clock chimes then grow taller and come alive with music, and the characters from the novel appear from the exterior.
The show goes for 3 minutes and is performed every hour or half-hour during busy times such as on weekends or holidays. You can’t ask for much more from a clock.
Ride The Botchan Train
Continuing with the Botchan theme, Toot Toot, “All aboard”, it’s time to ride the Botchan train. Modeled on the iconic steam trains that once huffed and puffed around the city, as an essential means of transport for locals from 1888, the Botchan Ressha train is a remodeled replica that manages to capture the essence of that bygone era.
Loved by locals and tourists alike this sightseeing train is a great way to travel between the downtown Matsuya City station to Dogo Onsen Station.
It’s no supper express with the trip taking about 20 minutes as you chug your way through the city.
Despite being a replica many details are true to the original, such as the driver’s uniforms and the wooden interior, famously described by Soseki as a “matchbox” in his classic novel.
Another peculiar quirk is the rather manual method used to begin the return leg. Nicknamed the little engine that can’t turn around, as you disembark at Dogo it’s worth joining the crowd and hanging around to watch the drivers jump out, detach the carriage, and manually spin the engine around. It’s quite the performance.
Read Our Botchan Train Guide: The Botchan Train
Isaniwa shrine
The magnificent Isanniwa Shrine is a beautiful and easily accessible shrine in the Dogo area. Passing through the wooden torii gate on the east side of Dago Onsen station, follow the path and you will see a dramatic cascade of stone steps.
Climb to the top and you will arrive at the striking vermilion-colored shrine.
It is said that the shrine was built on the ruins of the imperial palace of Emperor Nakai and Empress Jingu when they came to Dogo Hot Spring in the 14th century.
Isaniwa Shrine also houses a treasure house, which is dedicated to holding important cultural properties such as armor and swords.
Ishiteji Temple
Not far from the Dogo onsen area is the truly unique, vibrant, and sprawling Ishite-Ji Temple grounds. Temple number 51 on the Henro pilgrimage route and one of 8 in Matsuyama.
The fascinating Ishiteji Temple is renowned for its Niomon Gate which was designated as a national treasure constructed in 1318
It’s worth scheduling time to explore the full temple grounds as there are many hidden treasures to explore within nooks and crannies.
With an interesting combination of old and new statues, just when you think you’ve seen it all something new will appear.
Did we mention the cave? Be sure to live on the wild side and explore the mantra cave and temples to the rear of the main buildings.
Fun Fact: The temple is a popular place to visit for people wishing to conceive a child. Legend says that if take a stone from the temple and write a baby’s name on it, you will soon become pregnant. After you have the baby, you should return to the temple and give back two stones.
From Dogo onsen, the best way to walk to the temple is to take the stairs up to Isaniwa shrine and continue around the back and over the hill to Ishiteji Temple.
Read Our Article: Ishite Ji Temple
Dogo Park
The relaxing Dogo park is reached on foot from Dogo Onsen Station and offers beautiful scenery, well-kept lawns, and reconstructed samurai houses. It’s the perfect place for a stroll or rest.
A gentle slope leads to an observatory from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city of Matsuyama and great sunsets.
At night, the night view of Matsuyama from the observatory is spectacular, offering a breathtaking view of Matsuyama Castle, the station, and the hot spring resort area all lit up.
Yuzuki Castle was once built by the Kono clan, and excavations have revealed that there were samurai residences in the area surrounded by a moat.
Some of these houses have been recreated in the park and are open for tours.
You can enjoy the seasonal beauty of lotus flowers in the pond, autumn leaves, cherry blossoms, and other flowers, so it is a good place to visit if you are passing by the park.
Dogo Park is well maintained and has many attractions, including samurai residences and a walking course that takes visitors to the monument to Shiki Masaoka and Soseki Natsume.
Visit The Masaoka Shiki Museum
Matsuyama has been referred to as the mecca of haiku, the most uniquely Japanese form of verse. Consisting of 17 syllables in a 5-7-5 arrangement, it is said to be the world’s shortest poetic form.
Much credit for making Matsuyama the world capital of Haiku culture goes to Shiki Masaoka, the creator of the modern form of haiku and esteemed as one of the four Haiku masters of Japan.
Despite his relatively short life, dying at the age of 35 in 1902, Shiki is credited with the revival of Haiku’s modern form and is revered throughout the city.
Fans of this most succinct poetic form will enjoy visiting the Masaoka Shiki Memorial Museum, which sits imposingly in the corner of Dogo park.
Entry is 400 yen and another 200 to hire a set of English audio headsets.
While the Shiki Museum won’t be for everyone Haiku can also be seen on Haiku stones dotted around the city.
Dogo Onsen Sky Walk
Above the parking lot on the south side of the Dogo Onsen main building, is a wonderful 40-meter-long observation walkway that is newly renovated in and has become a new must-visit spot in Dogo Onsen.
The promenade has relaxing footbaths with the high-quality Dogo water as well as pavilions and benches for a short rest. It’s free and open from 6 am to 9 pm.
Along with the footbaths, the best thing about the Sky Walkway is that it is located at a height of 20 meters, giving you a panoramic view of the Dogo Onsen area while soaking in the footbath.
This is the perfect spot to take some excellent pictures of the entire Dogo Onsen building and surrounding area. At night, the footpath becomes a romantic promenade with foot lamps lit up.
Enmanji Temple
The small but interesting Enman-Ji Temple is beloved by the locals because it is said to be the savior of Dogo. In 1855, when the famous water from Dogo Hot Spring stopped flowing, people prayed to a guardian deity of hot spring water at the temple. Prayers were answered and the hot water started flowing once more.
The temple is also said to be the place to ask for divine intervention for marital bliss and the healing of illness.
Notice the colorful and cute balls of rice tied with a knot hanging in the temple. Buy one of these omotsudama and pray to the resident deity to make all your love wishes come true.
Bansuiso Villa
Heading back to the central Matsuyama area our next recommended thing to do in Matsuyama is to visit the opulent Mansuiso Villa.
The building is a French Renaissance-style chateau that is one of the most unique and recognizable attractions in town.
It was built in 1922 by Sadamo Hisamatsu, a cashed-up aristocrat and descendant of the former lord of Matsuyama. The Count designed the building in a purely French style, inspired by his studies in the country.
Bansuiso was the most prestigious social gathering place of its time, attracting the royal family and other distinguished people from various fields.
Something we found particularly interesting is two painted portraits of emperor Hirohito. One as a young man and one when he was much older in the post-war period.
Bansuiso is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm. Admission to the first floor is free, but a 300 yen admission fee is required to view the exhibits on the second floor.
It is a short walk from Okaido Shopping Street, just past the Clouds Over The Hill Museum.
Pro Tip: There’s a cafe with a wonderful little Japanese garden just next door.
Shinonome Shrine
Next is the wonderful and easily accessible Shinonome Shrine. Located at the eastern foot of Matsuyama Castle Mountain and was established in 1823 by the 11th lord of the Matsudaira-Matsuyama domain.
201 steep stone steps lead up to a solemn hall of worship surrounded by tranquility. In the past, “Shinonome Noh” was performed on the Noh stage, and 153 Noh masks and 110 Noh costumes are still housed here.
Every April, Shinonome shrine’s traditional noh performances are revived and a tea ceremony and the treasure hall are open to the public.
You can enjoy watching Noh while sightseeing the cherry blossoms at Matsuyama Castle.
Access: Just past the Matsuyama chairlift station on the corner.
Clouds Over The Hill Museum
This architecturally impressive museum is another must-visit for Japanese literature fans.
The museum is built on the theme of the book Saka-No-Ue-No-Kamo (Clouds over the Hill) written by Ryotaro Shiba, whose three main characters, the Akiyama Brothers were born in Matsuyama.
On display are books from the Meiji Era, as well as other materials related to the main characters of the novel. The building was designed by world-renowned architect Tadao Ando.
Ehime Museum Of Art
The impressive Ehime Prefecture Museum Of Art has a collection of about 11,900 works of art from Japan and abroad, mainly by artists associated with Matsuyama and nearby areas since the Edo period.
There are often special exhibitions and guest collections that introduce a wide variety of art.
Ride Kururin, the Giant Ferris Wheel
The dazzling Giant Ferris Wheel called Kururin can be seen popping out of the roof of the Takashimaya Department Store.
It takes about 15 minutes to complete a full revolution and the apex is 90 meters up so you’ll get a great view of Matsuyama Castle right beside you, and the beautiful Seto Inland Sea in the distance.
At night, it is a popular activity, especially on date night as it’s covered with colorful illuminations. There are also two gondolas with transparent glass floors that you can select to ride.
Iyonada Monogatari Sightseeing Train
The Iyonada Monogatari is a sightseeing train operated by JR Shikoku. There are two round trips per day, four in total, from JR Matsuyama Station to Yawatahama Station and from Matsuyama Station to Iyo-Ozu Station.
The retro-modern train cars offer a view of the beautiful coastline of the Iyo Sea. Attendants are also on board to provide attentive “hospitality. All seats are reserved, so advance reservations are required.
Eat The Local Sea Bream
Traveling in Japan is never complete without sampling the local tiples and delicacies and Matsuyama is no exception.
The specialty here, known as Tai Meshi is a wonderful Sea Brim cooked in a clay pot and served on rice.
The Best Places To Stay In Matsuyama
We recommend staying in the downtown Matsuyama or Dogo areas rather than nearby JR Matsuyama Station as that area becomes quite dull in the evenings.
Get Around Town On A Tram
Matsuyama is one of 18 Japanese cities that have maintained an original tram network and they really do add to the nostalgic feel of the city.
The streetcars are also a convenient way to get around town, while simultaneously getting a look at the everyday life of the locals.
Visit The Temples Like A Pilgrim
When you arrive on the island of Shikoku it won’t be long before you notice people dressed in all white, with large hats and a stick walking along the side of the road.
These are pilgrims, or Ohenro to be more specific. And they are following in the footsteps of the legendary Buddhist monk Kobi dashi who famously obtained enlightenment while visiting all 88 temples on the island.
These days pilgrims come from all over Japan to retrace the great one’s steps. For the hardcore folks, the traditional method is to complete the pilgrimage on foot which will take about 3 months.
Some choose to do it by bicycle while others zip around in tour groups or air-conditioned cars collecting temple stamps at a rapid pace.
If you don’t have a spare three months to chase nirvana you can still do a mini pilgrim by visiting a few of the 88 temples in Matsuyama.
tip: Looking to boost your fortunes? It’s considered good luck to offer a gift to a pilgrim, so if you see a weary Ohenro walk by why not grab an ice tea from the nearest vending machine (never far away in Japan) and offer it to them with a friendly “Douzou!”.
More Things To Do In Matsuyama, Japan And Nearby Areas
Still, looking for more fun and interesting things to do in Matsuyama? Here are a few more ideas for your trip.
- Take a ferry trip to one of the islands on the Seto Inland Sea
- Enjoy a train trip through rural japan to the old castle town of Ozu
- Check out the merch at the Okaido Shopping Street in the city center
- Travel to Imabari and visit the Towel Museum Ichihiro and Imabari Castle
- Enter the Ninomaru Garden with its original layout
- Drink the delicious local Mikan Juice
- Cycle the Shimanami Kaido, island hopping from Ehime prefecture to Onamichi city.
Matsuyama City Information
[one_half] City NameMatsuyama Population
600 Thousand<hr /> Must do Main Train Station
Matsuyama Station Nearest Airport
Matsuyama Airport Events and Festivals
Matsuri 1
Matsuri 2
