Matsue Castle is one of Japan’s renowned 12 existing castle towers that have survived intact from the Edo period and has remained unbroken and unburned since construction.
Of the 12 existing castles, Matue Jo Castle is the third tallest and has the 2nd largest floorspace after Hemiji Castle. Four hundred years have now passed since Matsue castle was constructed, and its intimidating yet stylish appearance can still be seen up close.
The Matsue Castle Tower sits proudly upon a modest hill in the city of Matsue in the central west coastal prefecture of Shimane. It is a much-beloved symbol of the city and, along with the surrounding grounds and samurai town, is a highly recommended destination for travelers willing to step off the well-beaten tourist paths and visit Matue.
Despite never seeing a battle or siege, the castle has a number of interesting defensive devices and designs, including the claim to Japan’s steepest castle staircase. Your knees may complain, but your eyes will be rewarded with fantastic panoramic views over the castle park, cite and lake.
History Of Matsue Castle
A bronze statue of Yoshiharu Horio, a famous warlord during the warring states period, welcomes you as you approach Matsue Castle. His son Tadaji (Tadasuji), who had put in a good performance fighting under Ieyasu at Sekigahara, was rewarded with Gassan Tomita Castle in Yasugi City and was lord of the once powerful Izumo region.
Tadiji however, was unimpressed with the location and defensive capabilities of the castle, deciding it was susceptible to modern cannon fire, and he decided it was time for a change of scenery.
He completed Matsue Castle in 1611, buil on the eastern edge of Shinji Lake and overlooking the surrounding samurai town. It was finished in just five years.
Young Tadaharu, Yoshiharu’s grandson, was the first lord of the castle, followed by the Kyogoku and the well-known Matsudaira clans, who continued to enjoy calling Matsue Castle home.
How Did Matsue Castle Survive The Meiji Era?
When you look at Matsue Castle today, its esthetic and historical value is obvious. But surprisingly, that wasn’t always the case.
In the anti-fudal relish of the Meiji period (1868-1912), Castles were seen as symbols of a bygone era and relics of the past. So much so that the government of the time issued an “Abolition of Castles Ordnance”.
Matue Castle was no exception and found itself in the firing line. It was promptly put up for sale with a price tag of 180 yen. Today that might buy you an egg sandwich from Lawson, but back in the day, it was the equivalent of 60 bushels (3000kg) of rice.
Luckily, a well-off local farmer and a former feudal lord got together and saved the day. They dipped into their own private rice bags and were able to buy Matue castle back. Later, the castle tower was extensively repaired with donations from the local citizens and has remained in place for us to enjoy until now.
The Prayer card And The Quest For National Treasure Status
In the basement, there are two recreated prayer cards hanging on the wall, and there’s an interesting story behind them.
Like world heritage status, National treasure status is a big deal in Japan. Originally Matsue castle was given this status but was unceremoniously stripped of the prestigious designation due to a change in the law.
But this demotion wasn’t taken lying down, and in 2012, two “prayer cards” were found at the nearby Matsue Shrine. It was believed that these wooden prayer cards were placed when Matsue Castle first came into use.
Thankfully, the prayer cards included the castle’s construction date, but it couldn’t be conclusively proven that they were from Matsue Castle.
Miraculously, nail marks were found on a pillar in the basement of the main keep, and in 2015, the castle was redesignated its National Treasure status.
Features of Matsue Castle
The castle stands at an imposing 30 m, with an 8m stone base and a 22m keep. The castle tower has four stories from the outside, and the interior has five-plus the basement level.
Matsue Castle is not only beautiful in to look at but also has a formidable defensive structure and attributes.
Enjoy The View From The Top Floor
The top floor has no walls inside and offers a 360-degree view. It is a great spot to view Lake Shinji on a fine day.
Back in the day, the castle was also a command post for monitoring the enemy and preparing for attacks. Enjoy the spectacular view of Matsue just like the castle lords of old must have enjoyed.
Steepest Castle Staircase
The staircases in the keep are steep and narrow. This makes them very effective for attacking ascending enemy samurai from above and pushing them off. Also, notice the sliding doors that could be used to block the openings during an attack. The staircase is made of paulownia wood, which is fireproof and antiseptic.
The stone Walls of Matsue Castles
The stonewalls are another interesting feature of Matsue Castle. Famous masonry craftsmen built them, and climbing up the “Honzaka” slope leading to the castle keep, you get a great look at these stonewalls up close.
The masonry technique is called “hammered joints” and was used for most of the original walls, many of which remain today.
Find Patterns On The Stones
If you look closely at the stone walls, you will notice that some have patterns carved into them. These engravings etched during construction to ward off evil and to pray for safety and good luck.
You will notice many types of engravings, such as a pentagram, an upsidedown heart, and a fan-shaped engraving. If you are traveling with kids, why not challenge them to see what kind of engraving they can discover.
When Is The Best Time To Visit Matsue Castle?
Matsue Castle can be enjoyed all throughout the year with varying scenes depending on the season.
Cherry Blossoms At Matsue Castle And Shiroyama Park
In the castle park, there are about 190 cherry trees, and shiroyama park is has made the list of the top 100 cherry viewing spots in the archipelago.
Matsue Samurai Warrior Procession
In early April, you can watch the samurai procession. This is a fascinating
reenactment of the entry of Matsue’s founder Yoshiharu Horio, and his retainers into Matsue Castle.
The procession is a spectacle to behold, and with a bit of imagination, you can feel as though you were transported 400 years into the past to the early age of the Tokugawa.
Snowy scenery of Matsue Castle
In winter, The city of Matsue often gets snow and the castle also looks great with the surroundings coated with white.
The black walls of the castle contrast heavily with the shining white snow making a beautifully majestic scene.
Sightseeing Boat Around Matsue Castle
There is also a popular sightseeing boat tour of the waters and moats surrounding Matsue Castle. The full course is about 4 km takes 50 minutes, and you’ll get a boatman’s guide (in Japanese) as you drift along.
There are three boat boarding areas:
Ote-mae Plaza near Matsue Castle,
Matsue Horikawa Fureai Hiroba
Karakoro Hiroba (Kyoten Shopping Street)
The boat tours run several times a day.
Kounkaku
Kounkaka is a guest house that was constructed in 1903. Its ornate finishes and weatherboard design give the feeling of being transported back to the Meiji era.
