Matsumoto Castle is one of Japan’s truly great original castles, and it would not be unreasonable to enter its name into the debate of the best castle in Japan. It’s easily accessed with a 15-minute stroll from Matsumoto Station, getting you to the castle gates.
Matsumoto castle, once named Fukashi Castle, dates back over 400 years to Japan’s tumultuous Warring States Period. It is the oldest existing five or six-story castle keep in Japan and has quite rightly been named a national treasure.
The combination of the main keep and the Tatsumitsuke and Tsukimi-hinoki cypresses built in the Taihei-era, called the “composite-style keep” symbolizes the different periods of time. This interlocking composite style keep is unique to Matsumoto Castle.
Tallest remaining 5-floor castle
During the Warring States and Edo Periods, Japan was speckled with castles, but now only 12 of these castle towers remain in their original state.
Of these, only Matsumoto and Himeji Castles are five or more stories making Matsumoto Castle the oldest existing five-story tower in the archipelago.
The 400-year-old castle
Matsumoto Castle dates back to the time when it was named Fukashi Castle. It was built during the early early stages of the Age of Warring States, during the Eishi period (1504-1520).
The castle was originally put up to protect the Ogasawara clan that ruled the area at that time and was later rebranded to Matsumoto Jo (Matsumoto Castle) after the upheavals of the Sengoku Ji dai (warring states period).
The famous black walls of Matsumoto Castle
An instantly recognizable characteristic of Matsumoto Castle is its outer walls which are coated with black lacquer. This was done by Kazumasa Ishikawa and his son Yasunaga, who checked into the castle once the Ogasawara clan had been given their marching orders. This was Ishikawa’s way of showing loyalty and solidarity to the powerful Hideyoshi Toyotomi whose mammoth fortress of Osaka Castle was also painted black.
This contrasts with “chalk castles” like Himeji Jo, which date back to the reign of Tokugawa Ieyasu. It is interesting to be able to trace the era of the castle from the color of its exterior.
The caretakers of the castle are no slouches, and the keep’s exterior is given a fresh coat of black lacquer annually to maintain its dramatic appearance.
The Castle At the foot of the alps
Matsumoto Castle sits in downtown Matsumoto at the foot of Japan’s towering Northern Alps and the contrast of the black of the castle and the snow-capped surrounding Alpine peaks makes for a magnificent sight.
Viewing the castle’s inner moat against the backdrop and reflection of the imposing Northern Alps is a memorable sight unique to Matsumoto castle.
It was pointed out by a guide that back in the day, the castle was surrounded by high walls, so only lords and big-shot samurai would have enjoyed this view. But now, we mere peasants can also take in its beauty. Viva la revolution!
The Red Bridge
Keen photographers should make a beeline for the red bridge known as the “Uzumibashi” on the castle west. It’s a popular photo point with the red bridge angling across the castle’s foreground nicely.
Birdlife In The Moat
Three resident swans can be seen enjoying themselves in the Castle moat along with other birdlife. And if you are lucky, you may see the always impeccably dapper mandarin duck.
A Flat Site Castle
Among the remaining 12 castle towers, Matsumoto Castel is the only one that is constructed on a flat site and is characterized by its three layers of moats for defense. Currently, the outer and inner moat remain, yet most of the third outermost moat was filled in during the Meiji period. Efforts are currently underway to restore this outer moat to its former state.
Robust and solidly equipped for battles in the Warring States Period
During the warring states period, a castle’s main purpose was to survive a siege, and you can see this in the design of Matsumoto Castle. There are no extravagant outer decorations and gabbles as you see in later castles. They say that function is beautiful, and Matsumoto surely poses a minimalist attractiveness.
The keep is equipped with all sorts of devices for gun battles. Notice the small windows, which are called “Yazama” or “Teppo-zama”. These small windows were used to attack besieging samurai with firearms and arrows. Matsumoto Castle has 115 of these small windows, many more than you will see in later Edo period castles.
Stone Drops
Although being a formidable defensive castle, no actual battles took place at Matsumoto Castle.
Another interesting defensive device of the castle is the 11 strategically placed stone drops.
when attacking samurai began to climb the stone walls, defenders could attack from here with firearms, spears, and heavy stones. Another option up the sleeve of defenders was to throw boiling liquid or if he got really serious, use the gap to dispose of toilet waste on the unfortunate and soon-to-be stinky attacker below.
War and Peace: Matsumoto Castle’s Edo Design
Once the samurai crowd got a century and a half of war out of their systems a more peaceful time kicked off with Ieyasu Tokugawa bringing in the Edo period.
The wily old shogun’s grandson, Matsudaira Naomasa, was given the keys to Matsumoto Castle and although the shogunate strictly forbade the construction of new buildings and castle extensions during that time, Naomasa was able to leverage his family connections to get the stamp of approval from his gramps.
Since Tokugawa Iemitsu, the 3rd shogunate, was expected to drop in during his road trip to Zenkoji Temple in present-day Nagano City, two elegant turrets, the “Tatsumitsuke Yagura” and the “Tsukimiyagura” were built.
If you enter the main castle tower, you can enter the Yugara or moon-viewing room on the downward route. Notice how open it is with large windows and is not equipped for battle like the main structure.
Admission to the castle tower and Honmaru Garden is 600 yen
The Honmaru Garden is open daily from 9:00 to 16:00, and the
Roaming Ninjas
Keep your eyes open for the Omentenashi squad. Dressed in samurai armor, ninja garb, a princess, and other costumes, you can take a photo with them for free.
Inside The Castle Keep
As you step inside the keep, you will notice that it’s dimly lit due to the lack of windows, and the sturdy and numerous wooden pillars give you a sense of the solidity of the framework.
Make sure to wear your most presentable pair of socks as it’s strictly shoes off inside the castle. As the entrance and exit are separate you are required to carry your shoes in a plastic bag that is provided.
Creaky knees, beware as you ascend the stairs from the 4th to the 5th level. These are the steepest of the main keep, with a maximum slope of 61 degrees. Keep a grip on the handrail and do your best not to tumble down on the poor folks below.
The Top Floor Lookout Of Matsumoto Castle
Once you make it to the top level, you are rewarded with panoramic views.
This area was once a watchtower and the absence of high-rise buildings in the surrounding area allows you to, with a little imagination, experience being a samurai of the time. Ring the alarm at once if you spot any marauding armies on the horizon!
Enjoy the view of Matsumoto city and the distant Northern Alps.
volunteer English tours for free
There is a group of volunteer guides who provide guided tours of Matsumoto Castle and its surrounds for free. If available you can see them to the left as you first enter the castle grounds.
